Category: Adventures

Woodland after the rain on East Highland Way walking from Fort William

East Highland Way Day 1: Fort William to Spean Bridge | A Broken Pole, Getting Lost & a Snapped Tent

East Highland Way Journal • Day 1

5–8 minutes

The East Highland Way is an 85-mile (137 km) long-distance walking route through the Scottish Highlands. This post follows my first day, walking from Fort William to Spean Bridge—a day that turned out to be far more eventful than I expected.

This post is part of my East Highland Way journal.

Leaving Fort William on the first day of my East Highland Way hike was full of mixed feelings.

The backpack was so heavy and the start of the journey is walking along a very busy road for about two miles. I certainly had no sense of a wild hike. Somewhere along that pavement I realised my pole was slightly broken and it kept shortening as I walked so my mind immediately went into negative thinking what a nightmare this is going to be. At that point I had no idea what else is going to break today.

Oh, I wish I knew.

Maybe I would be a little bit more positive.

Finally I started rising to the hills.

Showers accompanied me all day, hills were covered in white and I couldn’t sit down anywhere for long 6 miles, not even with a sandwich at the lunch time as everything around is wet. As I walked tired and my legs heavy a little stream appeared and there was a nice elevated rock just next to it. I was not deciding long and finally got a bit of a break.

Breathe and just be.

Birds singing in the tree above me, water splashing next to me and me just breathing, enjoying the moment, drinking some water.

As I sat there it finally hit me! I’m here.

Rock I sit on by the stream on East Highland Way

I felt a surge energy rushing through me and the backpack felt a little lighter. I am doing a big adventure and I am very grateful to be here. Tears of joy filled my eyes and I smiled.

I was finally on the East Highland way surrounded by nature. The whole narrative in my head has changed.

It lasted only little while until I got lost.

The trail is very badly marked and I have to follow an app at every crossing. I learnt the hard way that I truly need to pay attention on every crossing as I just assumed it’s straight ahead and few miles in I found myself on a wrong path.

About a half an hour ago I was meant to turn left and start descending. Instead I am much higher than I was supposed to be. I was making my journey even more difficult than it needs to be.

Luckily it seemed there were few forest tracks leading back to the original one.

In between here and me rejoining the correct route were again waiting few adventures I’d rather maybe not undertake if I’d known.

Forest trail on the East Highland Way

The forest was magical – old trees, narrow paths and beautiful smells. It turned out to be mountain bikes trails and the one I was walking on was called ‘witches brew’. 

I was wondering if the witches wanted to have a meeting with me or if they are going to cast some forest old magic on me.

The path was beautiful and quiet.

I met only one confused of my presence mountain biker and so I was thinking it is not all that bad that I ended up here.

Later I will learn the whole East Highland Way is a very solitary hike, but on my first day I just thought I dodged a bullet away from the crowds.

Suddenly I appeared on connecting route and looking into the app I was supposed to go back a bit to rejoin bigger route leading me onto the road.

I didn’t like the idea of going back and as I stared on the screen I could see a tiny trail on the map so I could just make a shortcut and reach the correct path instead of turning back.

You know what they say about shortcuts? They rarely turn out well. I don’t seem to be learning nothing from them.

Once I finally found the shortcut and started climbing up a narrow forest track it suddenly disappeared as soon I reached a fallen tree. I walked around expecting the path to continue but there was nothing. Only more fallen trees. I ended up in the field of fallen and cut trees with very tall grass and lots of uneven ground hidden beneath the grass..

Why I didn’t turned around is a mystery, but when you are carrying heavy back pack every additional step feels like hundred. I thought I just climb couple of trees to find myself back on the trail.

I had to balance on the tops of fallen trees carrying an eighteen-kilo backpack. Every step onto a trunk or uneven ground meant risking a fall, breaking something and not being able to stand up.

After lot of effort few near falls and lots of ticks getting ready for a feast I finally made it to the route which led onto Main Road with cars. I had to walk few more miles without anywhere safe to walk, cars racing around.

Finally I rejoined the path.

Route & Resources

More walking, more rain, more standing breaks trying to lift my backpack a little. Until I have realised it is my last chance to get water from a questionable pipe. I stood there wondering whether this really was my best option.

I guess I am really going to put my filter into the test. For the first time ever I actually used purifying tablets.

Another shortcut.

This time reasonably wide forest track leading into the hills. The view opened up for a first time today in late afternoon. I was shown the hills I am surrounded by only for a short moment before they got covered in a white blanket again.

It filled my heart with joy.

This is what I’m here for.

I feel very tired at this point and my whole body is really hurting. I’m hoping to find camping spot soon but I will be walking few more miles before forest finally appears after empty fields of cut trees.

I finally found my home for tonight.

Little beautiful clearing in between trees.

Perfect.

Until tent’s pole snaps.

Wild camping in a forest on the East Highland Way after the tent pole snapped.

Am I meant to go home?

Or what’s this about?

I taped it, but the tent was leaning. I just hope I am going to make it dry through the night.

I was just standing there paralysed in disbelief looking at the leaning tent. The evening was quiet but clouds above were threatening it could start raining any minute.

I decide my next steps tomorrow with fresher mind.

Looking back now, I think the East Highland Way was testing me before it had even properly introduced itself.

Continue to Day 2: Spean Bridge to Inverlain

Read Introduction to the Journey

  • Pipes on the hill in Fort William
  • Forest tracks leading to mountains on East Highland Way
  • Side of the road with heavy clouds above when I got lost on East Highland Way
  • Query in the middle of the forest on the East Highland Way
  • Detail of the strawberry on East Highland Way
  • View across the Scottish Highlands from the East Highland Way.
  • Dinner cooked on the first night on East Highland way
  • Heavy machinery on the East Highland Way
  • Forest track from Fort William on East Highland Way
Walking Highlands website

Day at a Glance

  • Route: Fort William to Spean Bridge
  • Trail: East Highland Way
  • Distance walked: 19 km (12.7 miles on my watch)
  • Weather: Showers throughout the day
  • Water: Limited towards the end; one pipe used with a filter and purification tablets
  • Camp: Wild camp in a small forest clearing
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East Highland Way – Part 1: Before the First Step

East Highland Way Journal • Day 1

3–4 minutes

The East Highland Way is a 137 km (82 mile) long-distance trail stretching from Fort William to Aviemore through the Scottish Highlands. Over the next few posts, I’m sharing my journey one day at a time. Not as a guide to ticking off miles, but as an honest journal of the landscapes, challenges and quiet moments that stayed with me along the way.

This first chapter follows my walk from Fort William to Spean Bridge, where the adventure began with heavy rain, broken gear and a reminder that the trail had its own plans for me.

I’m sitting on a train right now, pressed against the train window not only to see rainy views of never ending greenery of Scottish highlands but as well because my backpack leaning on me is probably the biggest and heaviest I’ve ever carried.

Leaving

It weights eighteen kilograms…eighteen!

Researching and planning for East Highland Way led me to believe I won’t find suitable shop and suitable food in the first village I’ll pass – Spean Bridge and so instead of carrying heavy cans I’ve decided to carry food for the longest stretch ever.

I have to have food for at least 5 days. As I find out later I carried quite a bit more than that, but we will get there.

It is raining quite heavily outside mimicking my own emotions when I was saying goodbyes.  Part of me wishes my partner to be here with me but I know there is a part of me who needs to fulfil her hunger for space and freedom away from everyone and everything.

Just me and hills for a week..

Challenging weather and experiences I yet am about to discover.

As I watch country quickly pass by I feel a knot in my stomach, anxiety has been accompanying me for few days now as the date has been approaching and I have started packing.

About the East Highland Way

East Highland Way is one of less known long distance hikes in Scottish Highlands. It is not even an official path, but rather connecting one through woodland tracks between Fort William and Aviemore – well known highland village in Cairngorms National Park. The winding path follows fairly sparsely marked woodland tracks 134km until they reach their destination in the east.

This journey has been on my radar for few years now and as it connects to well known West Highland Way, I’ve always wished to walk it. Finally I got my wish fulfilled and this journey turned to be everything else than I expected it to be.

For starters let’s just say it is not similar to West Highland Way in any way even though they share similar name. This path is the most quiet one I have experienced so far, the most remote one and the most challenging one due to long stretches of remoteness and endless solitude. Yet maybe exactly because of such, it is the most surprising long distance hike I have walked so far.

Route & Resources

JOIN ME!

Come with me on unexpected spiritual journey, journey which tested my limits not only physically but as well mentally and emotionally, journey on which I became someone else, someone who was there maybe for a very long time, but I got to meet her only now.

You can join me through written word (I will update blogs here as I manage to write them), but as well through video (on later date) in which for a first time I finally am able to include drone footage. And you can even join me through upcoming paintings as this journey has inspired my yet to be discovered artistic expression about this journey.

Can’t wait to share this with you :)

Read about the walk on Day 1

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Some Journeys Are Meant to Be Lived All at Once

Some journeys aren’t meant to be paused — they’re meant to be rather fully experienced, breathed in, and lived through in one flowing story. Finishing Abbey’s Way brought a strange mix of sadness and exhilaration. Over the course of nearly a year, I walked its winding path across shifting seasons, moods, and mindsets. Unlike other hikes I’ve done, this one felt different. It taught me differently. It offered insights I hadn’t expected, and gently asked for a kind of presence I wasn’t always able to give.

Breaking the walk into stages taught me something important: I don’t want to hike like that again. The momentum got lost, the magic faded between the pauses. There’s something powerful about pouring yourself fully into each step through blisters, storms, and all. But even with the stops and starts, there was a quiet gift in it. Time. Time to adjust to wild camping. Time away from everyday responsibilities. Time to grow confident in the untamed. That, too, was part of the lesson.

The ancient legends whispered from the ruins of the four abbeys and echoed along the trail, wrapping the path in a timeless story I now carry within me. It’s only now, with the final steps behind me, that the full story has come into view. Not just the story of Abbey’s Way, but the unfolding of my own journey too.

There’s a particular kind of magic in this landscape. It is the kind that inspired the first Scottish muse, that once pulled humans into the land of fairies. It’s a land of poets, storytellers, and dreamers. And I felt that magic more deeply with every step. Now, I know that was the true purpose of this walk: to reawaken the artist within me. The part that longs to write, paint, and create again.

Each stage was a chance to tell a story. A story rooted in experience, because only what is truly lived can be fully expressed. It’s just the beginning, but it’s the beginning I’ve been waiting for. Each part of the trail felt different, and each video I created helped me grow. That growth is most visible in the final video, the closing chapter of a journey that changed me.

I’m deeply grateful to the path itself and to the unseen companions, the fairies and forests, who joined me along the way. I hear you now. And I’m ready to let you speak.

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Facing Fear on the West Highland Way: A Journey into the Wild (and Myself)

“Some dreams wait patiently. Others push until you’re ready. The West Highland Way was both.”

‘The Dream That Sat on a Shelf‘

For years, I had romanticized the idea of walking the West Highland Way — a legendary long-distance trail stretching through the Scottish Highlands. During the pandemic, like many others, I started dreaming bigger while stuck indoors. I made a list of long-distance hikes, and at the top sat the West Highland Way. I even planned it out in detail… and then left it sitting on a shelf for two years.

Finally came the time I could make this dream a reality.

From Planning to Panic: When It Got Real

I had a freer week, the courage to commit, and a growing need to reconnect with something raw and real. I started planning seriously: mapping out the trail, calculating daily distances, booking time off work, and reserving campsites. The more tangible the plan became, the more real the challenge felt.

Suddenly, it wasn’t just a romantic idea. I was going to walk over 100 kilometers alone, carrying all my gear on my back. That realization hit hard. What would I pack? Could I handle the weight? Would I be safe on my own?

And there it was — the fear. Quiet, creeping, and relentless.

‘Wild Camping… Or Not Quite Yet‘

I had originally wanted to wild camp along the route. But the more I researched, the more unsure I became. Would I find a safe, discreet spot? Would I feel vulnerable alone in the wild? In the end, I filled even the final “let’s see what happens” night with a pre-booked campsite. I wasn’t ready to fully embrace wild camping — not yet.

Once I was actually on the trail, though, I quickly realized how many of those fears had been unnecessary. Still, facing the exposed landscape and unpredictable Scottish weather was no small thing. At the time, even staying in a tent at a site felt like a huge leap. But I also learned something important: it’s okay to take it step by step. Next time, wild camping will be part of my journey — I know that now.

‘Fear, Gear, and What-Ifs‘

The night before I left was the hardest part of the whole trip. My nerves were very present. Scotland might be my home now, but it’s still a land filled with unfamiliar corners — and I was about to walk through many of them, alone, for days.

I hadn’t pitched my tent before. I hadn’t tested sleeping in it. I had never hiked so far alone. And those questions started running wild:

  • What if something goes wrong?
  • What if I meet the wrong person?
  • What if I can’t handle the weather?
  • What if I just… can’t do it?

All the conditioning we carry — especially as women moving through the world alone — came rushing up. It wasn’t just fear of the unknown. It was the burden of a lifetime of “what ifs.”

It is not to say one shouldn’t be careful, but I realized something else that night: my mind tends to swing between extremes. I either overthink every single detail, or I leap in with barely a plan. With time, I’ve learned to find a middle ground — to prepare mindfully without letting fear take the wheel.

“I’ve learned that fear doesn’t mean I shouldn’t go — it means the journey matters.”

‘How I Deal with Fear (And Still Go Anyway)‘

So how do we move forward when fear shows up?

I’ve always felt deeply afraid before taking a leap. But I’ve also always jumped. That fear never fully goes away, but I’ve learned to listen to the quieter voice beneath it — the adventurous one, the curious one, the one who still believes in possibilities.

That night before my journey, I chose to listen to her.

Because she deserves to be heard.
Because she’s the part of me — and of all of us — that knows freedom.

And so, I went.

“We all carry fear. But we also carry the part of us that still wants to jump.”

You can find full story and more on my YouTube Channel -> @evainscotland

Connect with me on Instagram -> @evainscotland

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First SOLO camping in WINTER – How did it turn out?

In February I have attempted my very first winter camp SOLO.

I didn’t know what to expect and in all honesty I was a bit nervous. Only a week or two before storm Eowyn run through the region, it was still quite middle of winter which meant trees didn’t have any leaves yet, plus the path wasn’t heavily forested either and so I wasn’t sure I will find suitable safe enough place.

If curious, come with me to find out how it all turned out at the end.

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Solo Hiking 109km Borders Abbeys Way in Scotland

Another stage of long distance hike 109km Abbeys Way in Scottish Borders is done! This was one of those times when I really needed to go outdoors, but same time did not feel like going anywhere.

Usually I really enjoy recording, it helps me see the world around in different ways and process the experience afterwards, which is one of the reasons I actually really enjoy video creating. But this time I just really did not feel like doing so.

All have changed and turned around after first day, when I actually pushed myself going. One step at a time. Beautiful views, immersive environment and healing power of nature were absolutely present on this journey.

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Running 5k every day. Can it be done?

Since I had to stop last year due to sore heel for couple of months with no prospects of any long runs if any at all I had a hard time coming back to running. I tried to persuade myself it is a part of the journey and it is just temporary, but my willingness going for runs progressively declined.

Part of me, very proud part of me, who managed to run half marathon and was on the journey to the full one, was just sad. She didn’t want to stop running, she wanted to reach her goals and feel as she can and is capable doing so. She didn’t want to feel defeated, give up and start all over again.

I didn’t run for two months in hopes for my heel to heal. It got better, but as soon I have started running again pain came back as well. So although very reluctantly I had to start again from the beginnings. I had to change my already very stripped 10k run plan into 5k one.

Just few months ago I have run full twenty kilometres and now I run just ten five minutes and I feel tired?

What happened to my body?

This has been quite a mental challenge of going running, than few days processing the decline, persuading myself it is going to get better and running again. Sometimes unsure if the pain is normal or I just should stop all together. I tried to listen to my body, but same time not to make excuses for myself. As enjoyable runs still has been and helped me clear my head to somewhat extent it was just not what it once used to be. Fearful part of myself got to speak about my heel never getting better and proud part of myself just nagged me about never running marathon again.

Sometimes in the midst of it is hard to see things may ever got better.

Slowly, step by step I got to walk and run 5k.

My birthday came and I had a strong urge going outdoors as I was working all day. As we have longer light now I got to go to a forest for a quick 5k walk and run. It was a beautiful day and as I smelled pine trees around and heard birds singing I have decided this is the perfect time. Time to start running 5k every day for a year.

The idea was brewing in my head for quite some time, but I have been postponing it as I still didn’t feel ready for the challenge. When would I be though? What better time there is than mark it by my birthsday. I might not manage every single day, my injury might prevent me from doing so, but there is no harm to try and see. I can not run long distance runs this year, but maybe I can run (almost) every day distance I am capable to handle.

And see where it takes me…

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Braving The Storm | Walking Along Long Distance Abbey’s Way In Heavy Rain

Another stage of infamous long distance hike Abbeys Way is done. This was not an easy one and I had to dig deep while conquering elements. Heavy rain would not leave me and there were moments when I wanted to turn around, yet that would help nothing as I would have to walk through it all once again.

Boggy landscape, completely soaked shoes and even waterproofs at the end of the day.

I set a camp hoping to have a peaceful night.

Come have a look how it all turned out and if I managed to finish second stage of the journey.

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Solo wild camping Borders Abbeys Way in Scotland

This was certainly another anxious wild camping, possibly due to the fact it was just my solo second time ever wild camp. Borders Abbeys Way is definitely overlooked above others scottish highlands long-distance paths, but it is definitely a beautiful walk to experience.

You encounter 4 beautiful ruins of abbeys on the path, which played crucial role in the region tried but many conflicts in between Scotland and England. The path follows the same path as it used to be used by monks, locals and by notorious reivers which made moving across the region quite dangerous. Luckily nowadays it is nice walk without concerns of being robbed or killed by any reivers who might jump out from surrounding forests or field.

Yet while walking it is certainly interesting to think about stories of people walking the path in the past. Come with me to experience this not only historical but as well adventurous path across Scottish Borders. I have done the walk in stages always doing one stage and wild camping over night, which can give an idea of the path through wild camper perspective.

Thank you so much for watching!!

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Solo hiking West Highland Way in Scotland

This trip was one of the most important things I have done in my entire life. I took me a while to process it and even longer to actually make this memory. I still haven’t even write a post here about it. It’s all coming it’s all in me waiting to be put out into the world, remember the amazing moments on this journey. But for now here is a video where I tried to capture the experience.

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